It involves huge dynamic throws between one and twofinger locks. It was first climbed by sonnie trotter a few years back with nicolas favresse and ethan pringle making quick repeats earlier this summer. In 2006, canadian sonnie trotter made the first free ascent of the cobra crack 5. Oct 01, 2006 directed by peter mortimer, nick rosen. First ascent is a film that shows a lot of great climbing. First ascent is unlike any mountain climbing film youve ever seen. Yuji hirayama has made the 6th ascent of sonnie trotters cobra crack, 8cish, at squamish, made famous by peter mortimers first ascent, in which we get to follow didier berthods, as it turned out, fruitless, attempts to make the fa. The himalayas is the setting for the next first ascent before the film returns to squamish, and the continued efforts of didier berthod on the cobra crack, after which attention shifts to the hardest crack climb in europe greenspit. The first free ascent was a project for a number of climbers until sonnie trotter sent it in 2006.
First ascent chicago climbing classes and training. It was a lot of fun, and not too different from filming friends at the boulders, except that everything is dialed up a notch. The overhanging, 30m high finger crack had originally been ascended with a2 aid by squamish local peter croft in the 1980s and after swiss ace didier berthod had got excruciatingly close to the first free ascent in 2005, in june 2006 27yearold sonnie. Now it seems the boyz have seamlessly switched disciplines and are equally adept at climbing smaller cracks as well. I must also say that a few scenes in the film are a waste of time and are probably included in an attempt to add humour i. After coming back year after year, mason finally realized his. Sonnie said, its very rare to find a climb that is both overhanging, and so.
If you can climb the grade and enjoy cracks then the cobra is or at least should be on your ticklist. Join a global quest with worldclass climbers in pursuit of the ultimate goal. There have only been a handful of times in my life when i felt as proud as i did then. Didier berthod is a swiss rock climber who has been featured in many climbing films, notably first ascent. First ascent follows didiers efforts to make the first ascent of cobra crack in squamish, british columbia, canada. In 2005, swiss crackclimbing ace didier berthod, who had redpointed 5. Matt segal does 4th ascent of cobra crack climbing narcissist. This route, which saw its first ascent in 2006 by sonnie trotter, is a stunning, 120. Cobra crack is an arching thinfinger crack splitting a steep wall at the cirque of the uncrackables on the chiefs backside. With didier berthod, david lama, timmy oneill, kevin perez. Just out of curiosity what sort of climbing media do you follow whats your relationship with the sport.
This section is one of the best on the dvd, capturing a rare hard first ascent on film. The sizes of cracks vary from those that are just barely wide enough for the fingers to fit inside, to those that are so wide that the entire body can fit inside with all limbs outstretched. Matt segal does 4th ascent of cobra crack climbing. Dec 19, 2015 canadian sonnie trotter completed the first ascent of the muchtried overhanging finger crack in the summer of 2006. Wide boyz ii slender men the cobra crack the rv project. One of the best rock climbs in the world without question.
Furthermore, cracks are difficult to simulate in climbing gyms, so those who train indoors are limited to face routes when they climb outside. Canadian climbing star sonnie trotter makes his first ascent of cobra crack. It also documents his climbs in europe and his frugal lifestyle such as. One of their biggest ascents was back in 2011 when they made the first ascent of the desert offwidth century crack perhaps the hardest crack climb in the world and the centre of the awesome film wideboyz, and the dynamic duo are known for putting in the effort with specific crack training on wooden crack replicas back home in the uk. For better or for worse, the route has become a part of.
Logan barber makes 12th ascent of cobra crack gripped magazine. Situated high up on the flanks of the chief in squamish, this line was known as possibly one of the worlds most difficult cracks. A stunning wall of overhanging granite split by a singular seam, barely wide enough to get your. Cobra crack is the most beautiful crack in the world, and certainly one of the hardest and purest. The overhanging, 30m high finger crack had originally been ascended with a2 aid by squamish local peter croft in the 1980s and after swiss ace didier berthod had got excruciatingly close to the first free ascent in 2005, in june 2006 27yearold. The beauty and classicity of a climb is an incredibly subjective topic, but im just going go ahead and say it as others have. After his first ascent, trotter told gripped, cobra is 30 metres long, with the crux pulling over the lip around the twothirds mark. The first ascent was in the 1980s by peter croft who aid climbed it. Patagonia climbing ambassador sonnie trotter climbed the first free ascent of cobra crack 5. Crack climbing is a type of rock climbing in which the climber follows a crack in the rock and uses specialized climbing techniques. Dec 19, 2006 nice video of sonny trotters first free i. The ultimate guide to climbing movies from best to worst. Sonnie also made squamish history in 2006 when he and his climbing partner matt segal connected the shadow 5.
This next video is of sonnie trotter on the path a sweet 5. Sonnie has pushed the limits sport climbing with a first ascent of forever expired lions head 5. Since mason earle first tried cobra crack in 2009, the route has called him back to squamish, bc again and again. In 2006 cobra crack at the cirque of the uncrackables above squamish, canada, was hailed as the hardest pure crack climb in the world. Featuring dean potter, timmy oneill, sonnie trotter, and the amazing didier berthod on his quest for the first ascent of the cobra crack. Trotter began climbing in 1997 at age 16, and soon became the first canadian to climb 5. Let us guide you on your first ascent in our hour long learning to boulder class. The route, a pristine 30m finger crack that neatly splits the smooth overhanging granite face, was in origin a peter croft aid route graded a2. Cracking cobra mason earle tackles squamishs cobra crack. Kim ladiges enjoys a perfect splitter fist crack during the first ascent of king cobra 550m, iv 5. Traditional or trad climbing, is a style of rock climbing in which a climber or group of climbers place all gear required to protect against falls, and remove it when a pitch is complete. World class climbing, yoga, and fitness comes to the loop. In more recent years, trotter has gained notoriety for his support of clean trad routes over bolted routes, and his first ascent of the cobra crack in squamish, british columbia.
First ascent 2010 is sender films groundbreaking 6part series that takes you to the cutting edge of adventure. Find out what you need to know about climbing here. Pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century crack 5. Viewers will be blown away by their truly incredible feats of athleticism and courage. Didier berthod attempting a first ascent of the infamous cobra crack. Im not trying to be rude, but id sincerely love to hear a climbing perspective from someone who hasnt heard of the cobra crack. After conquering north americas hardest offwidths in their film wide boyz, tom randall and pete whittaker set their sites on the notorious thin line. Come try our unique take on small group fitness for free. On his first try of the day, after many weeks of attempts, will made it higher than ever before, falling off only one or two moves. The route is a major variation to the wellknown cobra pillar feature on barrills east face, and meets. Mason earle sends cobra crack in squamish gripped magazine. Later, sometime around 1975, i was hanging out and climbing in yosemite valley when tobin took me aside and said, i noticed that you have been climbing really well lately, and he asked me if i wanted to try and do the first free ascent of the cobra with him. The ability to climb cracks is at the core of a climbers craft. The cobra supertopo rock climbing discussion topic.
To date cobra crack is one of the hardest crack routes in the world. The bolts tend to be much farther apart than sport climbs. Canadian sonnie trotter has made the first ascent of what he believes to be the hardest pure crack climb in the world, cobra crack 5. Crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb pete is widely regarded as one of the best crack climbers in the world, having made dozens of cuttingedge first ascents and hard repeats, including the first ascent of century.
Sonnie said, its very rare to find a climb that is both overhanging, and so aesthetic. Traditional bolted face climbing means the bolts were placed on lead andor with hand drills. For better or for worse, the route has become a part of his history. Its a beautiful bit of climbing, really controlled and technical, with lots of finger jamming. Mason earle has made the 11th ascent of cobra crack 5.
Logan barber makes 12th ascent of cobra crack gripped. Crack climbing by pete whittaker provides a single point of reference for all crack climbing techniques, regardless of the grade you climb. The ascent was shown in the delightfully named sequel, wide boyz 2. One amazing highlight of this extreme sports program is didier berthods dangerous attempt to become the first person ever to climb the imposing cobra crack in british columbia. I was extra psyched because didier, my personal climbing hero, had set out to make the fa of the cobra crack, a climb as elegant as it is improbable. Sonnie trotter born november 15, 1979 in toronto, ontario is a canadian professional climber, known for his strength in many rock climbing disciplines, contributing to hundreds of first ascents around the world. He specializes in traditional crack climbing and has climbed many lines of this style. Canadian sonnie trotter completed the first ascent of the muchtried overhanging finger crack in the summer of 2006. This is a short clip about a local kick ass climber from the dnv whos attempting to be the fifth person to climb the one and only cobra.
Matt segal has made the 4th ascent of one of the hardest traditionally protected crack climbs in the world, cobra crack 5. Petes hard crack credentials also include the first ascents of crown of thorns 5. The classic film that inspired the national geographic series. The recovery drink and the worlds hardest crack climbs. Join us for 8 weeks of fun, fierce competition starting february 3rd. He climbed it 3040 times over a couple of years, before finally doing the first traditional ascent. First ascent was to be i hoped my biggest picture yet. A stunning wall of overhanging granite split by a singular seam, barely wide enough to get your fingers into. The route, a pristine 30m fingercrack that neatly splits the smooth overhanging granite face, was in origin a peter croft aid route graded a2.
The route is a major variation to the wellknown cobra pillar feature on barrills east face, and meets the original route below the summit snow slopes. Sonnie worked the overhanging, thinfinger crack 3040 times over the past few years, often ropesoloing the route to dial the moves, before completing it allfree. Climbing classes and training our climbing classes can help you get started or take your climbing skills to the next level. Over the past few seasons, harnden was able to make the thirdever ascent of iconic dreamcatcher 5. First ascents mission is to serve and grow chicagos vibrant climbing community by providing outstanding instruction, hosting fun events, and fostering a warm, welcoming environment. The trip culminated in the historic first ascent of century crack 5.